Telltales
66: With contributions from Maynard.
Black
Sea: Ukraine,
Crimea excursions and Odessa
Sunday
July 24th till Sunday July 31st, a week
of sightseeing.
Oleg,
Jean-Louis, Maynard and Valerie
At ten
in the morning Oleg and Valerie show up at the boat to take us on
an excursion around the Crimea. They
were part of the gang
on-board last night to escort and welcome “Lelitka”
home from her circumnavigation. As a thank you in return they
have offered to take us around by car and we happily accept. Jean
Louis, Maynard and Roland disappear for the day to make a 120 km
trip inland and up in the mountains. The first stop is the
beautiful Church of the Ascension at Foros, spectacularly set on
a cliff overlooking the Black Sea.
Hordes of local day tourist
fight their way up the steep mountain and we are grateful that
Oleg is a good driver. After having lit a candle in the church we
continue along the coast in the direction of Yalta.
10
miles before Yalta,
Oleg turns the car once again up hill. This
time it is a serious winding round, with hairpin curves and
through thick forested area. Clearly this is part of a national
park. The 30 minute uphill ride brings us to a beautiful peak,
where another adventure awaits us. A copious charcoal-grilled
lunch with salads and beer is served while we lie at the table
Tatar-style on comfortable cushions. Horse riding can be done
here and even a camel is available for the adventurous. Maynard
has serious negotiations with a 7-year old boy over the price for
taking a picture with his young falcon. All quite hilarious.
Tatar lunch in
style
No, young man, you
are overcharging.........
The
next two days are spent site seeing. The first day, Greg and
Rick, expats living in Sebastopol take Maynard and Jean-Louis for
the cave city of Mangup Kale.
The battlements were constructed by
Justinan in the 1st Century and the city only fell to
the Turks in the 16th C. Thank God that Rick is an old
hand at driving on BC logging roads because the drive up gave his
Mitsubishi Jeep a serious test. It was a long way up and we can
assure you that very few people attempt this drive. In addition
to the intricate caves, carved into the rock, the view is
stupendous, overlooking the Grand Canyon of the Crimea.
Rightly
so, it has been made a Unesco World Heritage Site.
Cave city of
Mangup Kale, 1st Century B.C.
(Cave) Room with a
view
The
following day Maynard and Jean-Louis set out by cab for
Khersones. 2500 years ago this was the important Greek city of Cheronesus,
and the ruins are the most extensive in the Crimea.
Several hours
are spent here in the hot sun scrambling around the many old
temples buildings and battlements. Afterwards we visited the
Panorama which commemorates the Crimean War. Sadly this
exhibition does little to explain a glorious, if bloody and
futile, chapter in British and Russian military history. The
Diorama, on the other hand, commemorating the 1 year defense of Sebastopol
against the Nazis is quite stirring. Located on the
bitterly-contested Saput Hill, all the old trenches can still be
found as well as many examples of Soviet military equipment of
the time.
The important
Greek city of Cheronesus, the most
extensive ruins in the Crimea
Reminder of just
another battle on the Crimea
On
Thursday morning we finally leave Balaclava
after having said
goodbye to the many friends we made here. It was a difficult
departure, especially as it is unlikely we will return in the
near future. We have met a large number of people and made a
great many friends. We have gained a genuine appreciation of this
fascinating country and its resilient and happy people. However,
now we have a new destination: Odessa,
170 miles sailing ahead.
With yankee and staysail we beat into 25 knot headwind and heavy
chop on a course taking us into the Black Sea and not much closer
to Odessa.
The Black Sea is like the Med, the
wind is always on
the nose! During the night the wind eventually calms down and we
motor- sail onward to Odessa, and
arrive as the sun sets over the
busy skyline of Odessa
port. As far as one can see, there are
cranes and gantries poking up into the sky to off- load every
kind of cargo. We are reminded that this was the largest
warm-water port in the former Soviet Union.
Despite the huge
amount of activity, the port is rather attractive; having been
designed by a Spaniard in the early 19th C. The Yacht
Club (marina) is situated right at the city center at the foot of
the famous Potemkin steps: 192 of them to reach the top and the
city center. We quickly get to know them too well as the
adjacent
small train that has always been used for the climb up is in the
midst of being refurbished.
Potemkin
Steps, Odessa
Odessa
was created by Frenchmen in the employ of Tsar Alexander and
built in the beginning of the 19th century. Wide
boulevards are everywhere, lined with trees that give shade in
this very hot climate. The architecture is not only grand but
also consistent as it was all built at the same time. Most
buildings look in a good state or are being restored as we speak.
What a beautiful city this is. Large, grand, aristocratic and
beautiful are words that come to mind. It is justly called the Pearl
of the Black Sea. As all of the
places we have visited however,
it does have a tortured history. It is chilling to recall that
before WW II, 70% of this city’s 1 million inhabitants were
Jewish. Barely 30,000 remain!
Odessa
Opera House
And
a beautifull elegant passage (nothing like
these modern shopping malls)
Roland
develops a swollen knee and Maynard deciding to take no risk,
arranges a complete ambulance and two doctors (much to
Roland’s horror). Roland submits and disappears off in the
ambulance and is taken to a brand new private clinic with all the
services imaginable. A physiotherapist first has a look and
decides he wants x-rays. Roland is x-rayed with the highest
state-of-the-art Siemens equipment. Upon examination the doctor
concludes it is a simple infection and nothing to worry about.
Anti-biotics are prescribed and the ambulance returns him to the
boat. A little rest and less moving around will sort out this
problem. The 37 degree heat and high humidity however does not
contribute to the healing process.
It is
from here that Jean-Louis will fly back to Paris on Sunday, so we
spent two days exploring the town and the sights. The Primoz
market on Sunday is impressive and we wander around in awe of all
the produce on offer. Hall after hall offers different produce;
meat, vegetables, clothing, fish, etc. Impressive and a joy to
walk around, we do our shopping in the market but eventually
succumb to the heat.
The odessa market
offers more color and flavour
On our
way back to the boat, we spot several antique shops and Maynard
and Jean Louis end up buying some early 19th C. icons
to take home as souvenirs.
Too
big, to take with us
Ahoy
Roland
S/y
SYLPHE
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