Telltales 58
June 2005
Atakaoy
Marina, Istanbul, Turkey
We are
back in Istanbul. Memories go back to 6 years ago, when we
sailed
up here with SYLPHE in aUN-restored state.
Almost sinking and
barely making it to Istanbul, as the engine had also given up at
that time.
This
time the arrival in Istanbul with more gracious. Adrian, Ian, Joe
and Maynard had joined me to sail Sylphe from Ayvalik to Istanbul
in a weeks time. When they boarded Sylphe
in Ayvalik, Marit and I
had just finished all the work, cleaned up the mess that we had
made on the shore after 5 months in the same place and were eager
to sail again. No sea-trials though, although we had taken the
mast off, fiddled around with the rudder, etc. After 5 years of
work on this boat, I am confident that I can fix anything, even
at sea. So, on a beautifull Sunday morning we said goodbeye to
the staff of Ayvalik Marina, who had taken REALLY great care of
us. Ismail, Deniz, Veysel, Goksu and Raci one more time a really
great THANK YOU. The town of Ayvalik and its nice poeople will
stay with us for a long time, but than again, we have never
stayed such a long time in one place. So, Ayvalik became a second
home and its people made it worthwile. We would recommend Ayvalik
to any yacht for a wintering, be it in the water or on the hard. Professional
staff and equipment.
We had
a leisurely sail down to Lesbos, Molivos. It is a great little
town. Gorgeous to see, but for my taste a little too touristicaly
organised. But the greeks really made an
effort. The town is
neat, clean, restored and plenty of restaurants around. Not to
mention that one can drink an Ouzo again,
compared to the Raki in
Trukey. We had a very pleasant diner on shore and I will never
forget the ride back in the dinghy to reach Sylphe again. Five
grown-ups in a dinghy……..
The
next day we had a great sail up north, to the turkish
Island of Bozcaada,
which is right in front of the entrance to the Dardanelles. Sunshine,
a beautifull breeze and great company on board.Bozcaade had
acrtually more boats in the harbour and this is an indication for
our Black Seatrip, as I would have suspected such a place to
be
empty. But two germans, a ukranian boat and two turkishcharterboats.
More busienss than I would have expected. The diner on the
gorgeiously quiet and unspoilt island was great. And as Maynard
says: “Never had a good meal in Greece, and I never had a
bad meal in Turkey” And he is right.
Over
the next days we would have to negotiate the Dardanelle, the
narrow strait separating Europe and Asia. A landmark in recent
wars. The Gallipoli battle in 1918 saw the upcoming of Kemal
Ataturk as the great leader and the allied forces defeated on
this hostile land called Turkey. Especially the Australians and
New Zealanders lost many troops, around 30.000 in a few months.
The only reason why Roland knows this: he actually went with the
boys on the tour to see the sights. Impressive, both the sights,
the dead, the trenches that are still in place only 30 yards away
from each other AND the fact that Roland left Sylphe to explore
inland.
Rain…………that
was the last thing we had expected, but still we had our share.
Negotiating the entry to the Dardanelle with 20 knots on the
nose, rain and 3 knots of current against one is not your most
favourable idea of a holiday. Still we made it. And the boys
still smiled. The wooden horse that was used in the TROJE film
with Brad Pitt, now stands proudly on the
center square of Cannakale,
since also Troj is only 30 kilometers away. A land full of
history and I am not gonna bother you with that, look it up or
come and see the sights yourself. Turkey is a delight to live in
and has a complete different welcome than the image it has
abroad. Media……..they simply do not get it right, not
even in Holland, picturing the Turks as a bunch of extemists
moslims…….haaaaaa. Be my guest and taste Turkey as we
did it (and so many with us)
We
left Cannakale in the evening, planning to night sail through the
remainder of the Dardanelle. No wind, engine on, Manoel (the
autopilot programmed to its waypoints) and sticking our head out
of the hatch once in a while. Roland disappeared into the galley,
the boys read books, sat on deck, were amazed with night sailing
and the easiness with which one can navigate at night, even in
one of the busiest waterways in the world. We were having diner
downstairs, enjoying a glass of wine and pasta/shrimps/orange,
when a rather large tanker passed at a mile distance. Still the
wave in his wake rocked Sylphe like nothing else, and the wine,
the tournedos, and everything else on the table went flying and
ended up in Maynards lap (and white trousers). Will
never forget
that moment. I guess we had become too confident of our luxury;
driving under autopilot, middle of the night, busy waterway,
enjoying a nice meal and Poseidon, Neptune and all other gods
combined punished us for our behaviour. Haaa
The
next days we spent leisurely in the sea of
Marmara, visiting some
of the off-beaten track places, like Erdek, Silivri and Karabiga
and Topogaz. Really great little jewels on their
own. The lunch
on the town quay of Karabiga is one for the grandchildren and
stories later. We were docked against a rough concerete wall. Not
the most romantic setting. Behind us a huge freighter that was
sunloading coal, dust and other trouble. Not your
most romantic
setting. The strawl through town was not that impressive and the
market rather below average. As I said, not the
most romantic
setting. We come back to the boat at middays and suddenly there
are guys sitting all round the boat, on the concrete, grilling
their little sardines on a tiny grill. One per
table. It did not
take long and we joined. A table and fife little stools were
arranged. The guy next door started grilling, I think, 2 kilos of
sardines and they were served on the table on a newspaper. Not
the most romantic setting as I said. But what a
taste………………………
Roland
spent a week in Atakoy marina to get the last things sorted out
for the Black Sea, visa, charts, courtesy flags, dieselfilters,
watermaker installation, battery replacement, SSB installation,
etc. Marit went to the university hospital to get her finger
looked after. The thing had seriously objected to being caught in
the winch a few weeks ago and was not improving (to Marits taste,
as a fact she should be pleased the thing is still ON). But the
fysiotherapy and a special bracelet for her finger did miracles
in a weeks time. In a few months she will
be oaky again.
Looking
forward to the next adventures in the Black Sea,
AHOY
Roland
and Marit
S/y
SYLPHE
www.sail-in-style.com
PS And for those that are curious how
the works on GISELA are
progressing, have a look on www.giselayacht.com