September
2004
Back
Home...........
It is
September 10th and Sylphe and its crew are back in Greek waters.
So familiar, so nice, so many friends and known places, the p(l)ace
hasn't changed and thus makes us feel ....AT HOME.
We
sailed Sylphe across from Cavtat, Croatia back to Corfu and the
Ionian islands only a few days ago, making our stay in Croatia
with a total of 4 months the longest period we stayed in one
country for the last 5 years that we have been sailing. And why?
Quite obvious. Croatia is THE sailing paradise of the Med. 1183
islands to choose from.......!!! Still can not grasp that one. We
have seen quite a number and I highlighted in yellow the places
that we have visited in our Imray Pilot Book. It is quite yellow
after 4 months, but still there are whole sections of the book
virginally white. And thus remain to be discovered in future
years.
So,
what makes Croatia so unique, besides this vast choice in places
to go to. The sheltered waters is definitely one. We have
experienced the BORA (the fierce northeastern wind) only twice in
our four month stay, so that made sailing, anchoring and enjoying
a lot more easier. The islands (and don't forget the mainland)
are all within easy reach of each other and on several occasions
when we sailed...... we looked around and were simply surrounded
by islands, you could not see open sea anywhere. The number of
anchorages, villages and places to stop for swimming are
UNcountable. We have not even started. So, although Croatia is
full with boats and boosting its tourism, it still did not give
one the feeling of being crowded, except in the obvious places,
like Hvar, Skradin, Korcula and a few more. But overall, even in
the midst of the high season we found anchorages to ourselves and
unspoilt villages welcoming its visitors.
The
architecture on land, makes every landfall interesting and
worthwhile. The history of the place is shattering. Of course the
Venetians have left their most clear mark on culture,
fortifications and architecture. But, I guess throughout the
centuries, EVERYBODY passed through these waters, from the Turks,
to the Ottomans, to the Greeks, etc. It has definitely left its
mark on the land. Almost all of the 1183 (still can not grasp it..!!!!)
islands still show the terracing on the slopes, that were made
centuries ago, for wine making, olive trees and other herbs. A
sad view, to see most of them deserted and abandoned. Not to
mention the enormous amount of work it took to make them all.
Thousands and thousands of kilometers of stone walls, even on the
most remote hilltop. Impressive.
The sad recent history of Croatia is a spell that is still in the air. Almost every family will have lost a family member, a relative or a friend in the recent war. The hatred is still fresh, and this will take a few more generations to disappear. Still, we have found Croatians very friendly, warm and willing to make the best out of the new situation They are a proud nation. And this shows. No compromise.
The
rich waters of Croatia still offer plenty of fish at reasonable
prices. And very good fish, indeed. We have had mussels, the very
best oysters (Marit had a serious go at them), Dorade, Scorpion
fish and many other varieties. Undoubtelbly put on the grill,
with a little oil, pepper and rosemary. A feast to eat it. No
matter where, no matter when. Be it for lunch or dinner. We have
found the most beautiful markets all over Croatia, with an
abundance of fresh vegetable and fruits. Some imported, all fresh
and very well presented and tasting.
So,
what did we do all summer long. Marit joined me after the pigeon
had finally left. So, I never felt lonely. We had plenty of
friends onboard. Willem and Ingeborg, Rob and Margot and their
kids, Maynard and Adrian, Kenan and Mariette with their 18 month
old son Zeb (he becomes a fine sailor one day), Andrea, Andrea
and Carla and the last troop was Mark, Robby, Chris, Annie and
Tatum. Still it left Marit and me plenty of time to explore and
enjoy this paradise just with the two of us.
Sailing
wise it was a mix, and it must be said, there were entire weeks
when we did not even got the main sail up. A serious lack of wind.
But than again distances are short, so we just switched on the
engine to get form one place to the next. Fortunately the best
sailing was done in the weeks that I had charters. Sailing under
spinnaker down to Kobas is one that will stay with me. Not to
mention the run that we had under full canvas from Trogir to Vis.
So, it was there, one just had to wait for the right day.
The
best places in Croatia?? A difficult one to answer. Since Marit
and I are not into the crowd thing, I guess our list is a bit
different, but anyway, for those who are going in a future year,
mark these down:
And of
course, we forget and offend a number of places that we do not
mention here, but so be it. We have never claimed to be perfect....just
enjoying.
For
now, we are back in Greek waters and will hopefully enjoy another
two months of great sailing, eating, meeting friends and seeing
some more familiar places. And thus 2004 will have its regattas
in Italy and the South of France without Sylphe. We did them for
four consecutive years and we wish to skip a year or two. And
thus enabling us to enjoy the warmest part of the Med in the best
time of the year: September and October. the seawater is warm.
the tourists and crowds gone, the wind more fluky than ever (but
who cares!!) and the Greeks have time again to sit down, talk,
play a game of backgammon and watch the sunset with you..............
Fine with us.
Roland
and Marit
S/y
SYLPHE