July 23rd, 2001
Croatia
Somewhere between Split and Dubrovnik, it is 7 in the morning, I am sitting behind the helm, running under engine as there is no wind, the sun is coming up just behind the ridge of the next island, no other boats around, a flat sea,……life could hardly be more beautifull.
And still…….Manoel (the autopilot) decided to die upon me again in Greece a few weeks ago. It looks like SYLPHE does not like modern technology or electronics as they all have caused major problems in the past. A few have been solved, the problem of the Mastervolt batterycharger was finally resolved after a new one was installed and Brooks&Gatehouse (instruments) had finally send a technician directly from the UK to make the system work correctly after one year of malfunctioning and three dealers having a go at it. BUT Manoel does not want to function. We replaced the hydraulic ram in Athens (the one installed in Malta only weeks before), had a few chips replaced on the motherboard of the computer, than the hydraulic pump of the autopilot was blown out, so we replaced that one and now the software of the autopilot is refusing to go through the set-up routine, so I finally gave up. Spent a fortune and it is still not working. I think we used it for a total distance of 100 miles, which was not our intention. For our normal sailing this causes no problem at all, as it is still a too bigge joy to hold the helm yourself. But for the trip from Greece to Croatia I would have liked to use the autopilot as I was alone onboard. But I spent 33 hours sitting behind the helm and I arrived safely in Dfubrovnik at 3 in the morning, having bypassed the Albanian coast, as this is still not a safe area to navigate. Saw plenty of dolphins along the way and a creature I did not recognize. It was floating at the surfuce and looked like a giant seal. When I moved in closer to take a photograph, it decided that three meters between her and the hull of SYLPHE was enough and dived under, not to surface again. I will send the photograph to National Geographic for more info.
It was a joy to have been in Greece again, and we went all the way to Amorgos, halfway to Turkey, before we made our way to the Corinth Channel (this time open and working normally) Visiting all those familiair places and faces. Some of the Cyclade islands I had not visitied in over three years and it was a joy, to see that basically nothing had changed. Marit has started working for WHO in Pakistan and it was here that our ways parted, for the time being. She will be back for the week in St. Tropez, she promised.
After having come out of the Corinth Channel and visiting beautifull places like Navpaktos and Messolonghi we arrived in the Ionian Islands, an area which I had never cruised before. The island of Kefalonia, Ithaka, Zakinthos, Corfu, Paxos, etc are so much different from the Cyclades Islands. Green, inhabited and the bays and beautifull ports are scattered all over the place. The port of Paxos is a beauty for the eye and a joy to sail into, but I must admit that I was appauled by the number of boats. Busy, is not the word that describes its the best.. Overcrwoded comes closer. But, hey it is August and the number of Italian boats was frightening (and most of you know how much I "like" Italians). So we saw some of these islands and I have made a promise to myself to come back here, but than in spring or autumn.
So, on our way to Croatia, of which I had heard so many prmising stories. More islands than you can imagine, all at convenient distances, green, lush islands, bays and small fishing ports. More places to drop your anchor than the pilot-books can describe. So, off we went. And it is all true, Croatia is indeed (probably Europe's) best cruising ground. The villages are more pittoresque and quaint than one can imagine. The architecture, Venetiuan influences, fortificatians and the sweet people make it a joy to stay here. It is a pitty that this year we have only three weeks to see some of the vital parts. We covered the area from Dubrovnik to the National Kornat-Island Parc, visiting places like Korcula, Hvar, Split, the falls of Skradin (taking Sylphe up the river on fresh water for the first time in her life)etc, etc….. We need to come back, as we have not even seen 1/10th of the possibilities I will reconsider my planning for next year and try to include Croatia a little bit more prominently, but it will have to be in June and July as again the place was completely overrun by Italians. If one wanted a place in a marina or port, one had to go in at 2 in the afternoon otherwise you were too late.
It is amazing that although the Med is a huge area, one keeps running into familiair faces and boats, from our winterstay in Monastir we met Ralph and Lesly on Kathrin, Stan with Chillfactor (both in Malta and in Corfu), Roy and Judy, Gerrit and Frieda, Lutz and his Paros, and ofcourse I managed to meet up with Jim and Nynke twice. More-over we run into some famous boats as well, and we keep getting their looks of approval: we sailed along with Magic Carpet (one of the first Wally's ) for three days, OKAY, I admit she sails faster, but still we caught up with her in every bay again. If you talk a modern boat, Wally is probably the most beautifull for the eye, and I guess this is why they are participating in St. Tropez as well. We ran into Palmyra (Cor Boonstras boat) and had a talk with him about classics (his one looks like a classic but was built last year) So, SYLPHE makes faces turn around more than once and the number of boats that pass by and applaude or put a thumbs-up is no longer countable. Pleasing and encouraging to keep going.
My sister is flying into Dubrovnik tonight to sail SYLPHE from Dubrovnik to Corsica as we are on our way for France, for some more charters and finally the participation in the classic regattas of Cannes and St. Tropez. It is all getting very exciting and look forward to see SYLPHE preform amongst her equals.
For now, have fun and enjoy,
AHOY
Roland
PS The varnish is holding up better than last year, but still I am running around with sandpaper and a paintbrush to patch up some spots.