December 19, 2001
From Bizerte to winterstop
We spend a day in Bizerte, to get used to Africa, the slower pace, the Ramadan and to sleep a little. We still had 3 long passages to make, before we were to arrive in our final “winterdestination” of Monastir. Every day distances between 50 and 65 miles, which is normally not much, but with only daylight for 8 hours of the day, time becomes of essence. The next day brought us without wind to Sidi Bou Said. The “Cannes” of Tunesia. Beautifull cliffs, with white houses hanging on them, green gardens, the presidential palace and a modern marina. The pilot mentioned that the entrance of the marina was silting, due to the current, but despite this warning I managed to solidly run her aground in the middle of the marina entrance, 5 meters from the dock. It took some full throttle to get us off, and we moved further over to the port side and just entered the marina. It was rather full, but at the fuel-dock, we found a place for the night. We took a taxi-ride to Goelette to have diner.
The next morning we left again around 8 for another trip of 60 miles to Kelibia. A nice 15 knot breeze on the stern, genua up and off we went. If you look at the map, you will find that from Sidi Bou Said to Kelibia, one will be rounding the northern cape of Tunisia and from there it only goes straight South. The cape is famous for wind and waves that meet from different sides. Today was no exception. We were in a washingmachine for two hours, and than we were passed. With a nice sunset and no wind we found Kelibia, which is a huge fishing port with only a few berths for yachts. We found a place next to two germans in the third row (it looks like Enkhuizen in the summer). Because of Ramadan, most of the shops closed, so we went out for diner again and were in bed at 11.
The next stop would be Monastir. Since we had been arriving at ports at the end of the day and with Ramadan going on this seemed not a good idea. Eeverything is closed, including the capitainerie. Most boats we met over the last couple of weeks were all heading South and some wanted to get to Monastir, but received message that the marina was full. Thankfully we had made a reservation some weeks ago. However, we were still nervous if a promise in Tunisia is the same as somewehre else. El Kantaui and Sousse were apparantly aslo full. So no where to go, if we did not find a place in Monastir.
And thus, we decided to arrive in Monastir at the beginning of the afternoon, in order to arrange things, if necessary. This meant however leaving Kelibia again at 4 in the morning. Which we did. Again we went out to sea, under a nice moon, no clouds, no wind, wearing only a sweater and some hot coffee. December 15th, and here we found ourselves siting outside again in the middle of the night. By the time the sun came up, the breeze started and we put up some sail. Under a full blue clear sky we made the last hours under sail towards Monastir. We lowered them at midday and docked at 1. We walked over to the capitainerie and after some discussion, they indeed still had a place for us. When we had walked around the marina, we discovered indeed that it was full. A few hundred sailboats, spending the colder period of the mediterenean winter here. Many live-onboards, activity on the docks, a sanding machine, some cleaning, etc. This place was alive. We had seen one vacant place in the whole marina, and it turned out that we were to go there.
On the Quai Presidentiel, right in front of a cluster of restaurants and bars. By three in the afternoon we were having lunch on one of these teraces, enjoying a full, hot sun, looking at each other: is this winter?? Are we going to survive this or not? Are there some people gonna hate us for this, or not?? YES. You can take your t-shirt off, walk around in shorts and need sunglasses (marit will buy a new pair tomorrow, as she dumped her previous pair in the marina of Kelibia) The marina is nicely situated, small houses, appartments, shops and restaurants all around the marina. All different boats and nationalities.
The present position of Sylphe gives us sun in the cockpit till 4 in the afternoon. Once the sun is gone, the temperature drops dramatically. The fact that we are on the main quai has the disadvantage that all the people that walk by have a clear and un-obstructed view in our cockpit and saloon. That does not give us much privacy. Although used to this situation in Greece (we never complain about privacy, when we are docked in Hydra) it is different now. Marit had another scroll around the marina and talked to some people. The result will be that we may move tomorrow, to go to the opposite side of the marina. More sun till the end of the day, more privacy, place to work and create a little mess, while sanding and painting and…… next to the ORION, which is docked here for the wintermonths as well. Orion, took part in the Nioulargue and is quite a sight. She is twice the size of Sylphe, but we will be nicely neighbours for a couple of months. Two classics, sisterly waiting for better weather.
In the mean time, we are plannning to receive all our friends here for their necessary holiday and to escape cold, fog, snow, rain and more. Youa re all welcome. We will have the telephone connected tomorrow and will be online from the boat. Now the e-mail will be up and running in a few more days and than we start feeling like a house-boat. The heating is on in the evening as it does get colder, but we snug in and enjoy.
Ahoy, Roland and Marit