maandag, 1 november 1999 14.48

From Cannakale to Istanbul

It was Wednesday before we had the courage to leave Cannakale again. We had enjoyed the Turkish way of life and its good food, bath and friends, but now the wind was favourable from the South. Since this is rare ( the wind is normally blowing from the North) and the remaining part of the channel was in the Northern direction we had to take advantage. So at midday we casted off, leaving some 10 people on the dock waiving us goodbeye. The engine was checked, oillevels were okay and it started without problems. We hoisted the big genua as soon as we were clear of the harbour-breakwater. Although the current was still up to 2,5 knots against us, we were doing some 5 knots an hour, with sail and engine. The last 25 miles of the channel would be covered in less than 5 hours.

Marjon had a plane to catch on Sunday in order to be behind her desk on Monday. So the remaining days were just enough to bring us through the channel and the Sea of Marmara. The sea of Marmara has some beautifull Islands in it, which we were to visit. One is Marmara itself, called like this as consitst completely of marble. Further up, closer to Istanbul we would arrive in the Bosphorus-area, which is famous for its secluded bays, green hills and little villages. Although it would be a hasty trip, we were still looking forward to seeing this part of Turkey.

We rounded the halfway point in the channel, there where it is at it narrowest in less than one hour after having set sail. Big oiltankers, cargoships, submarines and other huge vessels were either overtaking us or passing by. A glorious sight and one starts realising that the Sylphe, with its 18 meter, is tiny after all. Seeing these monsters pass at some 200 meters is impressive. We stayed close to the starbord shore of the channel, in order to stay out of the shipping lane and out of the stronger current in the center of the channel. We were still doing some 4-6 knots and were happy enough. The plan was to stop in Gelibolu, a village at the exit of the Channel. The harbour looked tiny on the maps and there would be little room for the Sylphe to manouver. With an engine that might give us problems at any time, I was not looking forward to this. I could see myself in this tiny harbour with an engine that would stall on me at the crucial moment. So I took another look at the map, to see if there was another place further up the coast for our overnight stop. Not much choice, but some anchorages were indicated.

BANG, VROOOOOOM, Klang, plenty of smoke and that was the end of the engine. The engine finally had given up. We looked at each other, without saying something. We all knew this was the end of the engine. With the wind still blowing steadily from behind and still some 15 miles of channel to go, the choice was easy. We had to profit from this wind as long as possible and get the hell out of the channel. I must not think of having to tack into the wind and the current, and crossing the channel several times with all these ships. So on it went.

We did not say much those first minutes. Without engine we still were doing 4 knots, so that was not too bad, and it would bring us out of the channel with daylight and right before sunset.

With the loss of the engine, we had also lost our capability of recharging the batteries. The batteries that were so much needed to keep the pumps working and pumping the entered water out. The main pump switched on every 10 minutes. The smaller pump for the aft bilge, switched on every 3 minutes. I reckoned that the batteries would last some 24 hours, befor they would be dead. Than the Sylphe would sink, slowly but steadily.

So I would need an harbour with 220 volt electricity to recharge my batteries. However, getting into a harbour without engine is a little difficult. So, soon I realised that we had not much choice as to continue in one go al the way to Istanbul. A 125 miles to safety and electricity.

When I came out of the saloon to discuss this with Marit and Marjon, they just nodded. They, too, had realised we had no other alternative. So we prepared for another night at sea. 125 miles with these winds could be done in less than 20 hours, so we would be there the next afternoon.

We continued through the Channel and left the last lighthouse behind us at 5 pm. The sea of Marmara opened up and the shores of Europe and Asia parted. What a relief to reach open waters. Of course the wind changed and turned back to the North as soon as we were out. So close hauled we continued, doing 7 knots and in the right direction. Our direct line to Istanbul would bring us past the island of Marmara on the North side. The whole stretch would leave us just outside the shipping lane for the big boats.

We had a nice pasta meal and enjoyed a sunset as purple as possible. The moon would not rise till 11 that night so the first hours were pitch dark. Regularly looking over your shoulders to check for the boats that would come from behind and overtake us. The lighthouse on the most north-western point of Marmara was still some 20 miles away. The skies became darker and the stars disappeared. The wind increased and turned further to the North-east. Exactly our direction. Was Aeolus never gonna give us a break.? By 10 o’cock I went up the deck to take down the big genua and put two reefs in the main. It was gusting up to 25 knots. An hour later we were struggling with high seas, water breaking over the boat and up to 40 knots of wind. More importantly the changed course would bring us in between the island of Marmara, some more smaller islands and the main land. Not much sea in between and pitch dark. Not a pleasant idea.

While I kept the helm and trying to keep a speed in the boat and more or less the right course, Marjon was busy plotting our position at the chart. Of course (how much more can there go wrong) the GPS stopped working. We connected the other antenna, but still no result. I had had it with the lectronics and the amount of misfortune. This was not a part of the world where I wanted to find myself without GPS. Too many islands, too dark and going too fast in the wrong direction. With my instructions yelled aginst the wind, Marjon tried everything with the GPS antenna, but without result. Finally I gave Marjon the helm, went inside, took a knife, cut the plastic of the antenna open. If it was not working, than I might just as well cut it open and destroy it myself. Inside I found a loose contact, between cable and antenna-connector. Some tape, a screw and more tape and I put the antenna back on deck. Swithced the GPS on and we had a position again. One obstacle overcome.

The island of Marmara is some 12 miles long and I wanted to pass close to the island in its lee. The wind might still be up to 30 knots, but at least the waves would be smaller. When we made it to the lee of the island the wind was not even 15 knots, the sea calm and it gave us 1,5 hour of breathing time. We set the thrid reef in the main and passed the island slowly. Although there was still no moon, I could see the trees and the different colours of the rock formations. I had said that I wanted to pass close by, so I did!!. We passed the little harbour of Marmara, which was tempting to enter.but without engine!?.

So we continued. As we rounded the halfway point of the island, we could see the end of the island. A lot of very bright lights were close to the shore. It took us some 15 minutes to figger out, that this was not a village or a harbour. FISHINGBOATS. Some 3 dozen of them, all with very bright lights shining into the sea, to attrack fish to the nets. These fishingboats do this all at full speed, without any obvious course or direction. And certainly no intention to go out of the way for a small sailboat. So we entered the mine field. 2 pairs of eyes trying to keep track of each fishingboat. On top of this we reached the end of the island and the wind and waves returned. We were doing 10 knots, taking plenty of water and dashing through the mine filed. Some fishingboats were passed so closely that we could hear the men talk. And that in a 35 knot storm. Half an hour later we had left the last one behind us. Open sea ahead and some time to relax. Try to relax when cold water is being splashed and thrown at you with dozens of buckets at the same time. And every time it hits you straight in your face, if you have not turned away quick enough. Than the water would leak through your collar into your neck, back, etc. The joys of sailing were experienced to the fullest. I had never experienced such a viloent sea, waves being so steep and high, and seeming to come from all directions. There was no pattern. We kept the boat at some 50 degrees at the wind and continued.

Marit had been in her cabin, trying to sleep. It turned out that she had had more trouble trying to stay in bed, than sleeping. Every wave would almost throw her out of the bed. I send Marjon below to get some sleep, as soon as the wind was below 30 knots. Since we were no longer an a straight line to Istanbul, the voyage was gonna take longer. And I would haveto get some sleep as well at some stage. So I had Sylphe again to myself. The wind calmed down to 25 knots and I started trimming her. Soon the boat was going in a straight line, permitting me to leave the helm. I could relax, sitting on the step of the cabin, out of the wind and out of the breaking-water. Dry and comfortable. I dozed off several times for a few minutes. Waking up, only to find the boat still going steady. This was as convenient as it could get under these circumstances.

The sun arrived at 7 in the morning, I went on deck to take the third reef out and than woke up the girls. They took over and I went to bed. They woke me up 5 hours later. We had to tack in order not to hit the mainland of Asia. The sun was bright, temperature mild and the new day looked promising. So we tacked and headed North. Istanbul was only 20 miles away and could be seen in the distance. We would have to tack all the way. Since we had been forced so far South we were way out of the shipping lanes. The tacking back up to stanbul would bring us close to these shippinglanes again. With all the traffic meeting here at the entrance of Istanbul, it would be quite busy. We sailed for another 6 hours and were coming close. Princess Island was a few miles away, Istanbul harbour some 9 miles away and my GSM worked again. So I called Andre to tell him that we were almost there. I guess I just wanted to talk to somebody and tell him of our horrible night.

There was still the problem of getting into the Marina without engine. Our Turkish contact had given me the phone number of the technical manager of the marina. So I called him, told him that we were on our way, but had no engine. We would arrive around 7 PM. He would go home, but inform the harbourmaster to help us in.

Aeolus gave us some last treats, by keeping on changing direction. Making the approach to the Marina not easier. We were forced to tack back and forth, through the shipping lane, with these enormous cargo ships. Looking back at the map and our track, I conclude that we had crossed the busiest, narrowest waterway entrance in the world, 9 times. And that without engine to cover us.

The view of Istanbul in the sunset, with its so predominant skyline with minarets, skycrapers, oiltankers, ferry boats was impressive. When the lights were turned on, it become even more fairytale like. We searched for half an hour to find amongst all those lights, the lighthouse indicating the entrance of the harbour. We would need to tack once more through the shipping lane to reach it. During that last crossing of the shipping lane we forced an enormous oiltanker to change its course and reduce speed. We had no choice, and he was quite gentleman-like.

Within one mile range of the harbour I called the Marina on the VHF. They responded and said that they had been waiting for us. Just continue, we will meet you, they said. Out of the pitch-black sea an unlit boat approached to tow us in. We lowered the sails, threw them a line and were pulled in. 10 minutes later we were safely docked.

We connected the 220 Volt to recharge battereis, went to the Marina office to say hello and had a marvellous, extravagant dinner in the poche Marina restaurant.

I slept well that night. We had made it all the way to Istanbul, from La Rague in France, through Italy, with a very nice hot summer in Greece. The voyage was over. Sylphe had brought us there in the end. Gloriously showing once again her talents through that rough night.